Italy’s vini biologici movement has spread to embrace 20 percent of the nation’s enological acreage. Italy is experiencing an organic wine boom. According to recent reports, close to one-fifth of Italy’s vines are already certified organic with many more in active conversion. For organic wineries, this means foregoing chemicals in the quest for healthy soils and 100% organic grapes, an essential recipe for environmentally friendly vintners. Known as “vini biologici,” Italy’s organic wines are proudly emblazoned with a green leaf label issued by the European Union. There is a common saying that “great wine is made in the vineyard.” By …