Italy’s organic wine boom

Italy’s vini biologici movement has spread to embrace 20 percent of the nation’s enological acreage.

Italy is experiencing an organic wine boom. According to recent reports, close to one-fifth of Italy’s vines are already certified organic with many more in active conversion. For organic wineries, this means foregoing chemicals in the quest for healthy soils and 100% organic grapes, an essential recipe for environmentally friendly vintners. Known as “vini biologici,” Italy’s organic wines are proudly emblazoned with a green leaf label issued by the European Union.

There is a common saying that “great wine is made in the vineyard.” By law, certified organic winegrowers must meet strict EU guidelines that include a ban on the use of synthetic chemicals to treat the vines as well as limitations on added sulfites. Producers are also pursuing traditional methods to promote healthy vines like letting grasses grow between the rows and encouraging local insects, bees and bats to flourish. The revival of ancestral techniques has led to modern revelations in the face of climate change. Organic practices help preserve water reserves and make vines more resistant to intense drought and temperature spikes. Advocates also believe the wines taste better — and are better for you.

Among my favorite organic selections are the elegant sparkling wines of Franciacorta. Making their wines in the same style as Champagne, the Franciacorta region is based in northern Lombardy on the eastern end of Italy’s glorious Lake District. One of the oldest wine estates in Franciacorta, Barone Pizzini, was the first to convert to organic practices in 1998, a decision that founding partner Silvano Brescianini made after discovering the potential harmful side effects of chemical vine treatments. “Organic is the means, the end is quality,” Brescianini is fond of saying. The organic wine movement has revitalized Franciacorta’s reputation for making sparkling wines that are savory, aromatic and quality driven. Today, close to 70% of Franciacorta is certified organic or in conversion, a significant draw for this Italian bubbly.

Chianti Classico has been one of the world’s most famous wine regions for centuries. About 40% of the wineries are now certified organic and had to overcome some stigma along the way. In 1990, the prestigious Fontodi estate in the heart of Chianti was one of the first to farm organically but only obtained official certification in 2008. “Back then, organic farming was considered a hippie trend, so for years I didn’t bother getting certified,” shared owner Giovanni Manetti in a recent interview. Taking over Fontodi in 1968, the Manetti family believes that organic practices reveal the essence of the Sangiovese grape, bringing out more structure, finesse and longevity. Like many of Italy’s top estates, Fontodi also pursues biodynamics, a quasi-spiritual devotion to nature that treats the plants, soil and earth as one living ecosystem, with planting and harvesting schedules dictated by the cycles of the moon. All that meticulous care from vineyard to bottle results in beautiful wines like Fontodi Chianti Classico Vigna del Sorbo Gran Selezione, a quintessential Sangiovese with fresh black cherry and mineral flavors.

Wine lovers are going to see many more Italian labels with the “green leaf” organic certification, including popular regions like Tuscany, Piedmont and Sicily. Emerging areas like Lazio, close to Rome, are also making a stand with a new generation of organic bottlings that embrace natural methods. The eccentrically named Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone DOC is a historic denomination forging a new path in northern Lazio, centered around Lake Bolsena, an ancient volcanic caldera with wonderfully rich soils. Planted primarily to the native Trebbiano and Malvasia varieties, Est! Est!! Est!!! produces vibrant and dry whites with hints of apple, stone fruit and almonds that pair perfectly with Roman appetizers like bruschetta and carciofi. For many wineries, organic certification makes perfect sense to uphold their environmental values while producing delicious wines.

Barone Pizzini Animante, Franciacorta Extra Brut DOCG
A classic blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Nero and Pinot Bianco sourced from estate-owned, organic vineyards. Lively pear and citrus flavors with fine bubbles.

The article above appears in the March 2025 issue of the print version of Fra Noi. Our gorgeous, monthly magazine contains a veritable feast of news and views, profiles and features, entertainment and culture.

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