How Genova became globe’s basil capital

Basil is so ubiquitous in Italian cuisine one might think it has been used in recipes forever. Instead, the culinary virtues of this tantalizing plant were discovered only 200 years ago.

Although basil has been around since ancient times, it was mostly used as an ornamental or curative herb. The ancient Greeks and Romans believed it was toxic and avoided it, while in medieval times it was grown by nuns in convents to be used in medicinal concoctions. During the crusades, soldiers and sailors returning from the Middle East would fill up their ships with the delicate plant to repel a variety of insects.

In the early 1800s, a sweet and fragrant type of basil (there are at least 60 varieties in the world) started appearing in more and more dishes, especially in the coastal area of Liguria. The hilly landscape overlooking the sea and the mild climate proved to be extremely fertile turf for basil to grow naturally. In a land where olive groves and pine trees were already abundant, it was only a matter of time before someone combined olive oil, pine nuts and basil leaves to produce pesto.

Farmers refined their growing techniques and installed greenhouses to maximize the production of local basil, which featured smaller, rounded leaves. By the early 1900s, the port city of Genova was the world capital of basil. In fact, the green sauce commonly known as pesto is actually called “pesto alla genovese” in Italy, since the word pesto is a generic term for an edible paste made of different ingredients.

Nowadays, basil is a big deal in Liguria. Basilico Genovese is a protected variety grown only around Genova and nearby coastal towns, and the city has an entire district dedicated to the cultivation and preservation of its precious plant. The Parco del Basilico di Pra’ was built two decades ago to give visitors a chance to learn about the plant’s history and its many uses. In 2007, the Genova Pesto World Championships were created to award the best pesto in the world. The one requisite to participate: You can only use authentic basil from Genova!

The article above appears in the July 2025 issue of the print version of Fra Noi. Our gorgeous, monthly magazine contains a veritable feast of news and views, profiles and features, entertainment and culture.

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