The Italian Nativity scene

A Short History of the
Nativity Scene
Il Presepio / Il Presepe

 

Each Italian town has its own traditions that make Christmas special. The nativity scene, called “il presepio” or “il presepe” is one such tradition.

There is a long history of symbolism
behind the setting and characters of “il presepe.” 

Since 1223, when Saint Francis of Assisi placed a manger filled with straw next to an ox and mule in a cave in the Italian town of Greccio, the nativity scene has become an integral part of the  Christmas celebration throughout Italy. This first nativity scene was created as a surprise for the townspeople for Christmas Eve mass. 

In the 13th century, Pope Boniface VIII commissioned Arnolfo di Cambio to sculpt figures from the Bible story of Jesus’ birth.  After the statues were revealed in 1283, the idea spread rapidly in the churches throughout the Kingdom of Naples. The original statues have been maintained through the years at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome.

The tradition of creating a miniature nativity scene with life-like figurines was taken up in earnest by the artisans of Naples. Following the early Roman organization of the streets in historical Naples, via San Gregorio Armeno became the street for the artisans to create and sell nativity scenes.

San Gregorio Armeno has a central location in historical Naples, running north-south between the two major east-west streets, via dei Tribunali to the north and via San Biaggio dei Librai (also known as the famous “Spacca Napoli” or “Naples Splitter”) to the south.  The photo below of a bustling Spacca Napoli was taken on a rainy day in May 2024.

 

 

From the 16th through the 18th centuries, the Italian nativity scene as we know it today came into its final form with the inclusion of symbolic characters from daily life, clothed as would be expected for that period.

Today, via San Gregorio Armeno is still the place in all of Italy to find the most well-crafted nativity scenes and life-like figurines. All are hand-made from the red terracotta clay of the region, using the same methods perfected hundreds of years ago. For this reason, the street carries the nickname “Christmas Alley.” Below are two of the shops on via San Gregorio with window displays lined with their many figurines.

 

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A Traditional Italian
Nativity Scene
Il Presepio / Il Presepe

A traditional Italian nativity scene has several elements, all based in the Bible story and symbolism that has developed in Italy over the years.

And if you think you already know the characters in this story, read until the end; you may be surprised at the modern spin the artisans of today have put on this historical scene!

Important elements of the nativity scene are:

The landscape (il panorama): usually made of cork with winding paths to represent the pathway taken by the soul to reach the light of the Christian faith. (Notice the definite article il for the noun panorama, which is of Greek origin, and retains its Greek masculine gender in Italian.)

The river (il fiume): life-giving water, which is a symbol for birth.

The mill (il mulino): used to make bread, which is a symbol for life.

The well (il pozzo):  a symbol for the darkness that man’s soul can fall into.

The bridge (il ponte): a symbol of man’s passage from this world into the afterlife.

The fountain (la fontana): usually with a woman beside it, represents when the angel Gabriel announced the birth of Christ. Women are known for gathering around the fountain to gather water as well as to relay the latest news or gossip of their town.

The inn (la locanda): a reminder that Mary and Joseph were turned away from the warmth and food offered by a traditional inn and instead had to shelter in a cave with farm animals.

The presepio below from master craftsmen on via San Gregorio Armeno takes some liberty with tradition in its depiction of the setting, although the focus remains the winding pathway taken by the wise men on their way to the holy family. The major figures in the story are, of course included in the central group — mother Mary (Madre Maria), father Joseph (Padre Giuseppe), the herald angels (gli angeli messaggeri), and the three wise men, or kings (i Re Magi). Notice also two important and typically Neapolitan ancillary figures at the bottom of the hill — a washerwoman and a sleeping shepherd.

 

 

A traditional presepio includes the following figures from the Bible story, as depicted above.

the holy family	la sacra famiglia
the baby Jesus	il bambino Gesù
Mother Mary	Madre Maria
Father Joseph	Padre Giuseppe
the herald angels	gli angeli messaggeri gli araldi del Signore
the wise men	i Re Magi

 

Traditional figurines lining the shelves of a shop on via San Gregorio Armeno:

 

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A  Neapolitan
Nativity Scene
Il Presepio / Il Presepe

As noted in the first section, townspeople are included in the periphery of the traditional Renaissance Neapolitan presepio for added symbolism. The figurines of these common folk represent the different sides of humanity and depict both good and bad human characteristics. Well-known pagan characters from Greco-Roman tradition or classic folktales may also play a part in the scene.

A list of the “essential” ancillary characters to be carefully placed around the central group in a Neapolitan nativity scene include:

Shepherds (i pastori) and sheep (le pecore) are the most common ancillary figures in any nativity scene. The group of shepherds with their flock not only play a part in the Bible story but also serve as a symbol of the believers who follow Jesus.

Benino is the name of one Neapolitan shepherd who stands out from the rest. He is always pictured lying down and sleeping, as if the entire scene were a dream of his. Symbolically, Benino could represent man’s tendency to ignore or be unaware of the divine. As a counterpart to Benino, an unnamed shepherd, called ” il pastore della meraviglia” or the “shepherd of wonder,”  is also often included. He stands apart from the group of shepherds, looking in awe toward the holy family.

A shepherd called Ciccibacco is a popular Neapolitan character who is said to represent the Greek god of wine and is a symbol of man’s tendency to drink and party to excess. He is often depicted as a large man, with rosy cheeks, standing in front of an inn and with a flask of wine in his hand. In a more elaborate display, Ciccibacco may also be shown seated in a cart full of wine barrels, either leading or following a procession of musicians playing the bagpipes and a flute. There is even a Neapolitan saying that mentions Ciccibacco to describe one who is “flat on his back drunk” — ” par Ciccibacc ngopp a bott.”

In another pagan reference, a female gypsy (la rom/ la zingara*) with her crystal ball may play a part in this Christian scene. This figure, who through the ages has been consulted to predict the future, is said to foreshadow the tragic fate of the newborn baby.

A fisherman (un pescatore) and a hunter (un cacciatore) are an essential part of a complete Neapolitan scene and are said to symbolize the cycle of life. Fishing takes place from the “river of life,” in the scene and fish symbolize sustenance in Bible stories. The hunter and his gun are said to symbolize death.

A washerwoman (una lavandaia), always depicted cleaning white cloths, symbolizes the midwife who helps Mary to give birth.

Food vendors were commonplace in all Italian towns in the past and a large nativity scene may depict a complete set of 12 food vendors. The number 12 may be included for the months of the year, or perhaps for the 12 apostles, who went out into the world after Jesus’ death to continue his teachings.  Miniature food and cabinetry is also available to make the surroundings of each vendor figurine more authentic. Most commonly included are the fruit vendor (il/la fruttivendolo(a)), butcher (il macellaio), fish vendor (il pescivendolo), and baker (il/la fornaio(a) / il/la panettiere).

Finally, beggars (i mendicanti) are included as a reminder that Christmas time is a time to help those in need.

A list of the ancillary characters often included in a Neapolitan nativity scene:

the townspeople	i cittadini
washerwoman	la lavandaia
baker	il fornaio / la fornaia il panettiere / la panettiera
fruit vendor	il fruttivendolo la fruttivendola
butcher	il macellaio
fishmonger	il pescivendolo
fisherman	il pescatore
hunter	il cacciatore
shepherd	il pastore
beggar	il mendicante il barbone
Seer gypsy	il/laveggente l’indovino(a)il/la rom il zingaro* / la zingara*

*The English word gypsy, and the Italian zingaro/zingara are considered to be ethnic slurs by the Romani people that have lived as an itinerant group in Europe for centuries. Rom is the proper Italian name for this group, thought to have their origins in northern India, and who speak Rromanës.

Below: Renaissance-style Neapolitan figurines based on local townspeople waiting to be added to a nativity scene.  It is said that the faces on the figurines created today reflect real townspeople from hundreds of years ago.

 

One shop on via San Gregorio Armeno even re-creates miniatures of cupboards and food for those who want to make their scene even more realistic!

Up-to-date figurines (not pictured in this blog) available to grace any nativity scene today include recent presidents and prime ministers, famous actors and singers, and of course, the famous Argentine-born soccer player who played for Naples, Diego Maradona.*

Some cities in Italy today also create live nativity scenes on the days leading up to Christmas. In Matera in Southern Italy, the nativity scene is recreated in the Sassi caves, while in Castanea delle Furie in northeastern Sicily, the entire village of Bethlehem is recreated.

*Diego Maradona transferred to Naples in 1984 and led the SSC Napoli to two Serie A title wins. Maradona’s image is also painted larger-than-life (as he was) on the exterior of many buildings in Naples.

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Neapolitan Trinkets
for Good Luck

Those who tour Naples learn that the red twisted horn pendant, or curniciello, holds a special significance for Neapolitans. Throughout the centuries, the horn was considered a symbol of strength and fertility in Naples. Today, it is said that if one is given a corno portafortuna, or “lucky horn,” it will bring luck to that person. If the person who receives this gift chooses, he or she may in turn bestow their new-found luck on the gift giver.

An old Italian tradition contends that garlic worn as a pendant will bring protection to the wearer.

Below are some figurines created on via San Gregorio Armeno decked out for Christmas that carry Neapolitan emblems of good luck and protection.

A visit to San Gregorio Armeno is not only a walk down “Christmas Alley”  but also a walk through the unique traditions of Naples!

Remember the Neapolitan Presepio
for your Christmas celebration this year!

Buon Natale a tutti voi!

 

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